“Sahara tour” is doing a lot of work in the Djerba market. Roughly half the tours sold
under that heading on this island never reach a dune — they cross the causeway, climb the
Dahar plateau, visit ksour and Berber villages, and come home. That is a real and often
excellent day, and it is the one described on the
Tataouine and Chenini page. It is not sand.
This page is the other half: the tours that get to the erg.
Where the sand starts
The Grand Erg Oriental is the sand sea that runs from southern Tunisia into Algeria, and
the closest point of it to Djerba is Ksar Ghilane — the most southerly oasis in the
country, sitting on the erg’s eastern limit. Palms, a warm spring-fed pool, and dunes on
three sides. Under a kilometre from the palms stands Tisavar, a Roman frontier fort
built no later than the reign of Commodus as a post on the desert limes.
That is about four hours from the island each way, and the last stretch is a track rather
than a road. Every tour that reaches it runs in a 4x4 for that reason, and the vehicle is
not a marketing choice.
The day-trip version
Three itineraries do the round trip in a day and each makes a different trade.
The most-reviewed one on this site
gives the oasis a full three hours — long enough to swim, dry, walk into the dunes and
take a camel ride if you want one — and fills the morning with Ksar Hadada and Guermassa.
$69, 4.8 out of 5, 1,671 guests.
The Djerba and Zarzis small-group route
goes further the other way at $68: fewer stops, extended free time at the oasis, plus
Matmata on the road. It suits anyone who would rather sit still in one extraordinary place
than photograph four.
The eight-hour 4x4 at $87
is the shortest day here that still reaches real sand, and it buys the saving out of
roadside halts rather than out of the desert.
The overnight version, which is the point
A day trip gets you to the dunes at the wrong hour. You arrive after lunch, when the light
is flat and the sand is at its hottest, and you leave before it improves.
The overnight tours fix that, and they fix it in two different ways. The
sunset-and-sunrise tent night
picks up at 11am rather than 6am — the drive happens at the hours nobody wants anyway, and
you reach the sand for the ones people book a desert tour to see. Dinner is at the camp,
the night is in a fixed Berber tent with bedding, and you are woken for the sunrise. $144,
4.8 out of 5 from 574 guests.
The two-day 4x4 does it
the conventional way and costs $48, which is the cheapest overnight desert tour in the
catalogue and cheaper than most of the day trips. It adds Tataouine, Chenini, Matmata and
Toujane around the same camp night.
Between November and March the desert loses its heat the moment the sun goes. Both camps
supply bedding; neither supplies a jacket.
What “Sahara” will not include
No tour from Djerba reaches Mos Espa, the Star Wars set at Ong Jmal near Nefta — it is
roughly 300km west, past the salt pan, and it belongs to Tozeur itineraries. Nor does any
day trip from here reach Douz and turn around; the Douz camel treks are a different
departure point. And the Chott el Jerid salt pan, the one people picture from the
films, is a Tozeur day, not a Djerba one.
What is genuinely within reach from this island is the erg at Ksar Ghilane, and it is
enough. Fifty metres beyond the last tent there is nothing in any direction.