Matmata is a village you can drive through without seeing. The houses are not built up
from the ground; they are dug down into it — a circular pit sunk seven or eight metres,
with rooms cut sideways into its walls and a tunnel out to the surface. From the road
there is a scatter of low buildings and a lot of apparently empty hillside. Standing in a
courtyard with the sky as a circle overhead is a different experience entirely, and it is
the reason to give this stop more than twenty minutes.
The Star Wars part, precisely
The Sidi Driss hotel is a converted set of pits, and one of them was dressed as the
interior of the Lars homestead for A New Hope. Four of its five pits hold guest rooms; the
fifth — the one from the film — is the hotel restaurant.
Two details matter if you are going for this. The set dressing was struck after the 1977
shoot and rebuilt in 2000 for Attack of the Clones, so what you walk into is a faithful
reconstruction rather than an untouched original. And the famous domed exterior of the
homestead is not here at all: it stands on Chott el Jerid, roughly 300km west, and is not
reachable from Djerba in a day.
Because the film pit is a working restaurant, access varies with service. An itinerary
that lists Sidi Driss entry as included is worth more than one that merely lists Matmata
as a stop.
The half that is not about a film
Most routes also include a visit to a household still living underground: rosemary tea,
bread baked on the spot, estate olive oil, and heja. A tip is requested rather than
included, and goes straight to the family.
This is the part guests write about afterwards. The pit is cool in August and warm in
January, which is why the form exists, and hearing that from someone who lives in one
lands differently from reading it.
Which tour to book
The Matmata and Ksar Ghilane jeep safari
treats Matmata as a destination rather than a stop on the way home: the Ain El Anba
viewpoint, the oasis and its hot spring, then the Berber house, the tasting and the Sidi
Idriss hotel, with a Ministry of Tourism licensed guide. $85, and 4.8 out of 5 — from 16
reviews, so a small sample rather than a strong one.
The small-group Ksar Ghilane and Matmata 4x4
at $69 is the better-evidenced booking — 325 guests, 4.6 out of 5 — and adds the Toujane
mountain pass. Matmata gets less of the day than on the jeep route, but the tea and the
family visit are in it.
The Djerba and Zarzis small-group route
at $68 pairs Matmata with an unusually long stop at the oasis, and the
private Star Wars tour at
$255 per group of two includes Sidi Driss entry outright alongside Chenini and the ksour.
For more time again, the
two-day 4x4 puts Matmata
on the morning of day two, when the village is quieter than at midday.
The honest limitation
No tour from Djerba is only Matmata, because the village is two hours away and would
make a very short day on its own. Every itinerary here pairs it with the desert, the
mountain villages or the ksour, so the real question is not whether Matmata is included
but how much of the afternoon it gets — and the tours above are ordered by that.